Jambi’s Hidden Gem: The Exotic Allure of Excelsa Coffee
worldreview1989 -While Arabica and Robusta dominate the global coffee market, Indonesia, a nation rich in biodiversity, offers a plethora of fascinating, lesser-known coffee varieties. Among these is Excelsa coffee (Coffea liberica var. dewevrei), a rare and resilient species that has found a distinctive home in the tropical peatlands of Jambi Province, on the island of Sumatra. Often overlooked, Jambi’s Excelsa coffee, locally known and beloved for decades, is a specialty that presents a unique profile and a compelling story of agricultural resilience.
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| Jambi’s Hidden Gem: The Exotic Allure of Excelsa Coffee |
A Rare Species Thriving in Unique Terroir
Excelsa is a member of the Coffea liberica family, but it is often recognized for its distinct characteristics, particularly its fruit’s appearance and its unusual flavor profile. Globally, Excelsa contributes only a small fraction to the total world coffee production, cementing its status as a rare and specialty bean.
In Jambi, particularly in areas like the Tanjung Jabung Barat Regency (specifically Betara), Excelsa thrives in conditions that are challenging for the more common varieties. The region is known for its peatland (lahan gambut), a swampy, highly acidic soil that can be detrimental to most crops. However, the Excelsa coffee plant possesses a strong, resilient root system that allows it to adapt and flourish in this environment. This ecological advantage is a key factor in the coffee's longevity and popularity in the area, offering farmers a sustainable and profitable crop in otherwise difficult terrain.
The ability of Excelsa to grow at relatively low altitudes (often between 0 and 750 meters above sea level) in tropical climates and on challenging soil gives Jambi’s coffee a unique terroir. This specific environment is believed to contribute significantly to the bean’s remarkable flavor notes.
The Distinctive Flavor Profile
Jambi Excelsa coffee is celebrated by local aficionados for a flavor profile that is strikingly different from Arabica's bright acidity or Robusta's heavy body and bitterness. It presents a complex and multi-layered taste experience:
Aroma: It often carries a light, fruity, and sometimes floral aroma, which can be likened to jackfruit (nangka), a scent that occasionally leads to Excelsa being referred to as "Nangka Coffee."
Acidity and Body: Unlike Arabica, Excelsa typically has a low acidity, which makes it easier on the stomach. It is characterized by a notably thick, heavy body that leaves a substantial mouthfeel.
Tasting Notes: The flavor is often described as a compelling blend of fruity tartness, balanced with notes of caramel, dark chocolate, or nutty hints, and a long, smooth aftertaste. Some describe it as having a smooth, chocolate-bitter, and fruity orange character, particularly when sourced from the Betara region. This unique combination of a fruity scent with a deep, full body makes it an intriguing cup for specialty coffee lovers.
Cultural Significance and Traditional Processing
In Jambi, Excelsa is not merely an export commodity; it is a deeply ingrained part of the local identity. For decades, traditional Jambi coffee producers, such as CV. NEFO (Cap AAA), have utilized the Excelsa bean, cementing its status as the quintessential local coffee. It is the go-to beverage for local gatherings and is a sought-after oleh-oleh (souvenir) for visitors.
Historically, much of the Excelsa harvest in Jambi has been processed using the dry method (pengolahan kering), where the cherries are dried whole. While this method is traditional and cost-effective, there is a growing push among local farmers and cooperatives to adopt the wet (washed) or honey processing methods. These advanced post-harvest techniques are aimed at further enhancing the quality, consistency, and specialty characteristics of the Excelsa bean, allowing it to better compete in the international specialty coffee market.
Furthermore, farming in the peatlands of Jambi often leans towards organic practices. Many smallholder farmers operate traditional-conventional techniques without the use of chemical fertilizers or pesticides, relying instead on integrated farming systems, often in agroforestry with coconut or palm trees, resulting in a naturally cleaner, more organic product.
The Future of Jambi Excelsa
Despite its history, Jambi's Excelsa is a coffee of the future. Its resilience to challenging climates and difficult soil conditions makes it a potential "climate-proof" crop—a significant advantage as global climate change increasingly impacts traditional Arabica and Robusta growing regions.
The coffee industry is beginning to take notice. The unique flavor and the environmental story behind Excelsa have attracted attention in international coffee competitions, giving Jambi’s product a platform to showcase the diversity of Indonesian coffee. As consumers increasingly seek out unique, sustainable, and high-quality specialty coffees, Jambi Excelsa is perfectly positioned to step out of the shadows and take its place as a truly exotic and vital contributor to the global coffee landscape.
The next cup of coffee you enjoy might very well be this rare, resilient, and distinctively flavored bean from the exotic peatlands of Jambi, Sumatra.